Day 47 - Kathmandu, Nepal (Pashupatinath Temple and Boudhanath Stupa)

Day 47 -  Hers.

Still no word from Rob – hope all is well up that mountain! 

I was awoken again this morning at 5 – Tien had booked a flight over Everest and had to meet her guide to go out to the airport.  She had done the same thing yesterday, but had seen only cloud.  Given the torrential rain, I doubt she will have seen much more today... (In fact, the flight never even took off today.)

When Tien returned, our group (minus Cindy who has come down with a bug - - poor timing for her!) met Rita, our local guide for the morning, and went first to visit Pashupatinath Temple, one of the most significant Hindu temples of Lord Shiva in the world and located on the banks of the Bagmati River in the eastern part of the city. 

The temple was established in around 400 AD but rebuilt 17th century by King Bhupendra Malla after the previous building had been consumed by termites.  Countless further temples have since been erected around the main two -storied temple, notably 11 to the ‘widows’ who traditionally threw themselves onto the burning funeral pyres of their husbands. The river banks are lined with pyres and the smoke from cremations and murmurs of funeral services hang over the entire area.  Although Rita said we could take photos, it seemed insensitive to me to do so, intruding on the relatives’ grief.

Until the declaration of the Republic and destruction of the monarchy, the chief priest of Pashupatinath temple was answerable only to the King of Nepal. In new ‘secular’ Nepal, the priests have complete autonomy; and there are many priests around the temple, accepting funerary offerings and giving blessings. Sadhus come from far and wide and live together in an area outside the temple – seemingly taking turns at being photographed by tourists for money.  This, also, did not seem quite right. There are also many monkeys, scampering in and over the various temples, shrines and balustrades, looking for their share of any offerings brought by worshippers – and the invariable trinkets sellers:  ‘Mandalas, 100’, ‘Necklace, very cheap’.  The guide book says that this area is particularly bad on a sunny day – one silver lining of all the rain!

The Pashupati area is regarded as one of the most important places of pilgrimages for the followers of Hinduism. Thousands of devotees from within and outside the country come to pay homage every day. Tomorrow is apparently a major holy day. Hindu women will fast for the whole day – praying for good husbands, or if they’re married, for good health for their husbands and children.  As on many holy days, many will also take ritual baths in the Bagmati River.

From there we travelled about 15 minutes in the morning traffic to Boudhanath Stupa, one of the holiest Buddhist sites in Kathmandu with reputedly the largest spherical stupa in Nepal.   There are a number of legends concerning the establishment of the stupa.  It is not even known when it was established – various accounts give dates between 400 and 850AD.  Visiting this important Buddhist site immediately after the Hindu temple allowed us to make some comparisons..... The area surrounding the stupa was much calmer and quieter.  Prayer flags flapped in the wind, prayers wheels turned silently, soft melodious chants came from the monasteries on two sides.  Monks and worshippers walked clockwise three times around the stupa’s base, silent excepting the drumming of rain on umbrellas and the squelching of sandals.

We toured an art school where young people studied and practised – up to 15 years to become a master... – to paint the beautiful Tibetan Buddhist Thankha paintings using natural pigments and gold to create intricate detailed designs showing the Dalai Lama’s peace mandala, the Wheel of Life and scenes from the life of the Buddha.  We didn’t buy anything, but we all left donations to help with their work.

We returned to the hotel and were joined by Cindy from her sick bed and Tek – with our kit bags and instructions on packing for our trek.  We leave for Pokhala in the morning – gateway town to the Annapurna Region.  Please, please, can the rain let up!